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Polishing Aluminum
by: 8URTANG & Thumper93Z

Disclaimer: We do not claim that everything within these pages is 100% accurate and if you should use this information you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Materials you will need and
the steps you will use them:


Some WD-40
1) 40 Grit to take out all of the concrete
like texture (rub the paper against
another piece to avoid gouging the
aluminum too deep).
2) 80 Grit (rub this paper together as well
or it will gouge to deep).
3)120 Grit.
4)180 Grit.
5)240 Grit.
6)320 Grit.
7)400 Grit.
8)600 Grit.
9)800 Grit.
10)1000 Grit.
11)Polish with Autosol and then Neverdull.
12)1500 Grit
13)2000 Grit
14)Polish with Mothers Aluminum Polish

Depending on what you're polishing. There's generally three different types:
1- Smooth but dull casting eg;Transmission
casings.(Requires steps 6-to-11)
2- Rippled surfaces eg;Mustang 5.0 upper
intakes.(Requires steps 3-to-11)
3- Stuff that's like concrete eg; GM intake
manifolds.(Requires steps 1-to-11)

Then there is aluminum that was polished originally but has got a dull milky look to it . If the surface feels rough use steps 12 to 14. If it's still smooth, but milky, just use 13 to 14 . Be sure to use the WD-40 on the paper while sanding.

Depending on what you're doing. A dremel is good for corners and hard-to-get-at places but will mess up flat areas. Sandpaper from 120 to1000 needs to be a wet-paper and keep the surface lubricated with WD-40.

If you skip ANY of the steps you WILL end up with scratches from the previous Coarser Grit paper. Make sure You give yourself plenty of time to do it, best thing to do is buy a spare part for what you're working on. For example: If you want to do your alternator got to a rebuild shop and buy the two halves of the casing, when you're done just get the guts switched. Unless your car is off the road for a good amount of time.

So if you had a TPI System to polish You would do:
The upper and lower using steps 1-to-11.
For the side runners use steps 3-to-11.
For the throttle-body steps 6-to-11.

Have patience, it takes a long time to do it right. I am still working on an LT1 intake. I'm up to the 240 Grit stage with over 20 hours into it. It does get quicker as you go to finer paper. I spent 12 hours just flattening out the surface and getting rid of the casting marks. The more time you spend, the better it will look in the final stage. I've tried about five different ways and this is the best for the mirror look. Best advice, USE the WD-40.

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to
email us.
Good luck, and take your time with it .



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