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Need a good 5.0 mustang site.

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Posted by: LS1 Mopar Turbo

I can't tell you why yet...Oh what the hell. I kinda want to retire the Trans Am from track duty...So I am off to pick up a (well look at first) an 89 GT. I am going to gut it, I mean gut it! Heads, Cam, intake, headers, and all the other stuff and race that! I don't want to spend more than 3800 bucks, but it is going to happen here in the next month.
I am going to sell the 12 bolt because I don't think it work well with the six speed.



Posted by: John

The Corral.

If it's still around. It was populated by a ton of ass-monkeys for a while there but there is still a ton of great info there.

http://www.thecorral.net/


Also, SVTPerformance.com has alot of info on Mustangs and Fords in general.

There is also StangNet: http://www.stangnet.com/

I know alot of guys from SSOTN and there is a ton of info and very helpful people there too:

http://www.superstallions.com/



Posted by: No Rice Allowed

What about one of the sponsors on here at the bottom of this topic? they have a forum as well..

http://www.mustangtuning.com/



Posted by: ShelbyTurbo2.2

you gonna let me drive it mike? the 5.0 that is...

Ive heard good things about the 347 stroker kit for the little 302's... Might be a little spendy... and i believe that some of the 5.0's came with forged internals... i think it was the 90's cars... im not 100 percent sure on that though... just a rumor i heard.



Posted by: DeckSetter

Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1 Mopar Turbo
I can't tell you why yet...Oh what the hell. I kinda want to retire the Trans Am from track duty...So I am off to pick up a (well look at first) an 89 GT. I am going to gut it, I mean gut it! Heads, Cam, intake, headers, and all the other stuff and race that! I don't want to spend more than 3800 bucks, but it is going to happen here in the next month.
I am going to sell the 12 bolt because I don't think it work well with the six speed.
__________________





Mike's giving up an LS1 T/A to drag race a Mustang? I call B.S.



Posted by: LS1 Mopar Turbo

It is ture, I don't want to hurt the T/A it will be a sunny day car.
I figure I will buy the car for about 3500 bucks and then I have about 3 grand to spend. I am guessing Trick flow heads, trick flow intake, Cam, Headers, exhuast, and the N2O kit from the T/A and I think I will see 11.50s.



Posted by: ShelbyTurbo2.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1 Mopar Turbo
It is ture, I don't want to hurt the T/A it will be a sunny day car.
I figure I will buy the car for about 3500 bucks and then I have about 3 grand to spend. I am guessing Trick flow heads, trick flow intake, Cam, Headers, exhuast, and the N2O kit from the T/A and I think I will see 11.50s.



How much power are you planning on runnin?



Posted by: SVOno5oh

Mike don't forget to gut it as much as possible. I know there are lots of topics on all the stang sites John listed that will tell you how much weight you can save. Get an LX hatch, lose the ground effects, and strip the interior. I remember a guy running 12.9s on a stock 5.0 engine just by gutting the car, gears, slicks, and very minor tuning things like a MAF etc. You do all that and the mods you have listed and your goal is surely attainable. I know you'll have fun with it. I think a dedicated race car really makes sense for how you like to drive too.



Posted by: No Rice Allowed

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOno5oh
Mike don't forget to gut it as much as possible. I know there are lots of topics on all the stang sites John listed that will tell you how much weight you can save. Get an LX hatch, lose the ground effects, and strip the interior. I remember a guy running 12.9s on a stock 5.0 engine just by gutting the car, gears, slicks, and very minor tuning things like a MAF etc. You do all that and the mods you have listed and your goal is surely attainable. I know you'll have fun with it. I think a dedicated race car really makes sense for how you like to drive too.



Why a hatch, wouldn't the Notch(trunk) be sturdier and lighter??



Posted by: No Rice Allowed

Quote:
Originally Posted by No Rice Allowed
Why a hatch, wouldn't the Notch(trunk) be sturdier and lighter??




On the fox stang's hatches, you could actually shake the hatch back and forth and it would open up without a key....depending on how new the latch is....very poor design..an ex-girlfriend had one.....and a bud of ours actually showed us on hers, how easy it was to get in it......



Posted by: LS1 Mopar Turbo

I found a 90 LX with a bottom end rebuild and Newer stock heads. Whole car has 160,000 on it. But it has pullies, BBK Long tubes, off road h pipe, flowmasters and fresh tranny. Has some clear coat issues and a small dent no biggie. 2500 bucks. I think that is the one. I am going to see it this weekend. I have already bought the stuff to convert a FI 5.0 to a Carb car. so the project is go! Just need a car now.



Posted by: MikeT

Quote:
Originally Posted by No Rice Allowed
On the fox stang's hatches, you could actually shake the hatch back and forth and it would open up without a key....depending on how new the latch is....very poor design..an ex-girlfriend had one.....and a bud of ours actually showed us on hers, how easy it was to get in it...



My brother had an 85, everytime you hit a bump the hatch would open up.



Posted by: SVOno5oh

woohoo! The LX much lighter car.

Yes the notch rear is lighter, but it is a totally different car. The wing on the GT hatch has tons of extra holes and weighs a ton compared to an LX hatch and spoiler.



Posted by: LS1 Mopar Turbo

Yeah that is why I am looking at this one.



Posted by: MadScientistMatt

Quote:
Originally Posted by No Rice Allowed
On the fox stang's hatches, you could actually shake the hatch back and forth and it would open up without a key....depending on how new the latch is....very poor design..an ex-girlfriend had one.....and a bud of ours actually showed us on hers, how easy it was to get in it......



Did he show you how to get into the trunk before or after you broke up with her?



Posted by: Grape Ape

If it's to be a race car, who cares if it's easy to open the trunk or not? All that means is easy access to the battery and fuel cell.

Doesn't matter which you get really, but the coupe can be made lighter in short order. They're also harder to find for a good price.

Why go carbed? So much can be done with Fords EFI system, it's just as well to keep that setup unless you go with the 351W build or bigger. Getting into the 11's is a no brainer with some choice mods, including nitrous. I really like the TFS head, and for that matter, intake. But the intake is heavy and I prefer some Edelbrock offerings for that reason. TFS also offers a nice choice of three camshafts to help make the desired power and keep it legal/streetable. Not my choice personally, but I've seen some pretty strong engines using the fairly simple StageII cam, not even adding the great heads. One did quite well with an old set of Edelbrock aluminums. At any rate, aluminum heads are the correct direction in my book. Good luck with it.



Posted by: LS1 Mopar Turbo

I can't wait got pictures of it today, Black, looks clean. I am going to get it on Tuesday. I figure even if it sucks, I can build it. EASILY. That is the Key.



Posted by: No Rice Allowed

Quote:
Originally Posted by MadScientistMatt
Did he show you how to get into the trunk before or after you broke up with her?




before...



Posted by: No Rice Allowed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grape Ape
If it's to be a race car, who cares if it's easy to open the trunk or not? All that means is easy access to the battery and fuel cell.





Body Integrity? I would think it would have way more body flex than a notch would...



Posted by: Grape Ape

Quote:
Originally Posted by No Rice Allowed
Body Integrity? I would think it would have way more body flex than a notch would...

Huh hem... Race cars built for 1/4 mile racing have roll cages. Add a cage and you won't care if the hatch falls off.

I've had each and prefer the coupe. But both do well on the track and I don't think I've ever heard mention of decklids opening and causing any problems in a drag race.



Posted by: LS1 Mopar Turbo

I am going to look at the car tomorrow. I hope to get it by next Friday. I have to get the 12 bolt shipped.
I think I am going to go with a kit that trickflow sells it is the whole top end of the motor. That, some limited weight reduction and n2o will put me into the 11's easily. I am excited to have a decicated racer as I feel it make it more fun for me so I don't have to worry so much about breaking!



Posted by: No Rice Allowed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grape Ape
Huh hem... Race cars built for 1/4 mile racing have roll cages. Add a cage and you won't care if the hatch falls off.




True, But until then..It'll have more flex and what Mike was saying, "He didn't want to sink alot into it".....A good roll Cage isn't all that cheap..I Believe it's legal to run 11's without a roll cage at most tracks...So why go to all the trouble with the hatch, if a notch would be better suited in the long run???



Posted by: LS1 Mopar Turbo

A cage for it is 399 bucks. I am going to get one anyway.



Posted by: ShelbyTurbo2.2

Sounds like fun... Give me a call if you need a hand with anything... even if its just running to and from the fridge for beer...



Posted by: Grape Ape

Roll cages help in so many ways, it really makes sense to have one in a dedicated race car.



Posted by: Grape Ape

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyTurbo2.2
Sounds like fun... Give me a call if you need a hand with anything... even if its just running to and from the fridge for beer...

Suckin' up hoping to get to drive it? Soon we'll have to refer to you as "Beer Bitch!"



Posted by: hammerdown

i'd get a hatchback b/c you can put a wider tire on a hatchback than you can a notchback.



Posted by: Grape Ape

Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerdown
i'd get a hatchback b/c you can put a wider tire on a hatchback than you can a notchback.

I've never heard that before. But without any different mods, I've used the same tires on one, then the other, same rims included.



Posted by: ShelbyTurbo2.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grape Ape
Suckin' up hoping to get to drive it? Soon we'll have to refer to you as "Beer Bitch!"



ha... actually mike spent the better part of 2 years fixing my shelby everytime i broke it....



Posted by: Tang

AFR 185 heads, Trick Flow track heat intake, and a comp Xtreme roller. Get you a better trans ASAP, a TKO if possible. If you think breaking that 12 bolt was bad, wait till you get started on T5's

I wouldnt stroke it though, the stock 5.0 roller blocks are thin wall castings, built to save weight. It's not uncommon for the block to give up the ghost after 450hp or so. Find you a late 60's, early 70's 351W and work from there if you want to build a real beast.



Posted by: Tang

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grape Ape
I've never heard that before. But without any different mods, I've used the same tires on one, then the other, same rims included.



I've never hear dof that either. Always thought spacing underneath was the same on either Rears are the same width, quads mount in the same places, fender openings are the same.



Posted by: StoneFox

I would go with the Trick Flow combo my friend orderd for his turbo car, cant beat the price. CNC ported Track heat heads, Track Heat intake, Valve covers, stage 1 cam (i think this could be substituted for the stage 2 but not sure) for a hair over 2 grand

AFR's are awsome for sure, but you could only get the heads for that price with them.



Posted by: VETTKLR

http://www.hardcore50.com/

Here's a killer site that helped me out alot with the buildup of the 408 car.

Mmmm TrackHeats...niiiiice



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