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Yo Jay!
(Click here to view the original thread with full colors/images)

Posted by: Adrenalin

Since you can never seem to find the time to stop by, here are a few pics. I'll post more tomorrow in the build thread I had going in the Ford Forum.

Here's one with Doug's (the guy who bought my old coupe) valve covers

Whatchya think?

Posted by: LS1JAY

Lookin' good! I will get by one of these days and check it out, and I will be going to the track with you when you get the car up and running!

Posted by: KingofSlackers

Dude.. that looks sweet!

Posted by: An11SecRanger

MAN! I have been outta the game too long! I've never seen that (dual rod) anti-roll bar set-up, or the (some sort of) pan-hard bar like that on a Mustang!

Sure looks good, though!
Damn Mustang Monkeys are always ahead of the curve, too!

Posted by: Grape Ape

Ohhhh... I like it! I'd like to go to the track to see that one myself... Let us know when you'll be going to GAINESVILLE!!! I know you're closer to ORL, but that track sucks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by An11SecRanger


	MAN! I have been outta the game too long! I've never seen that (dual rod) anti-roll bar set-up, or the (some sort of) pan-hard bar like that on a Mustang! Sure looks good, though! Damn Mustang Monkeys are always ahead of the curve, too!

Those rear parts have been around 5 or more yrs already. It's just that most people got either the single style antri-roll, so most haven't looked at his. The panhard bar isn't common either, but I've seen them.

Anyway, that suckers' CLEAN!!!! It sure looks good. Speaking of, let's me and you get back to my car now that I've dragged it out again... Prolly won't run like his, but it should be a fair runner if it ever gets back to the track!

Posted by: Adrenalin

Thanks for the props guys. I'm hoping she's done by the fall. The current turbo is a Garrett 76mm small frame, but a buddy is going to buy it from me and I'm going to replace it with a mid frame y2k 91mm.

The tranny is a fully built (aside from keeping the lock-up option) manual vb 4r70w with some 4r75w internals and lots and lots of extra stuff that I don't know anything about and also has a trans brake. It should ship next week. How long do you guys give it before it throws in the towel?

Posted by: LS1JAY

The car will be a beast for sure! Post up a few more pics. Got any with a good side shot with the cowl hood on?

P.S. Be sure to keep plastic bags away from the intake on this one!

Posted by: Grape Ape

Those transmissions can be built to hold power. The trans brake hurts, but if you want one, you deal with it. If it can't handle the power(and it likely won't for very long), you'll be either looking to a slip-n-slide or a C6 or a manual, Liberty, G-Force, etc.

I went C6 because it's fairly cheap comparatively and it seems rebuilders have no trouble gettin' in there and making it stronger. It's already quite strong, but if you have too much weight or a nasty blast of torque on launch, it can indeed break. Oh, and the C6 was a direct fit, which also saves money. Mine desperately wants a new converter, but I have to make a few other changes before deciding which one to get and I haven't had the car to the track in like, forever...

Posted by: Adrenalin

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1JAY


	The car will be a beast for sure! Post up a few more pics. Got any with a good side shot with the cowl hood on?

Thanks bro, I posted some more pics in the Ford Forum. As for one with the hood on, it looks like I'm going to have some hood clearance issues. It's not gonna be too big a deal, just got other things to deal with first.

Posted by: An11SecRanger

After seeing the pics in the other thread, I see the part ,which I thought was some sort of a pan-hard bar, appears to be a reinforcement for the rear housing.
It appears as though the tubes aren't welded to carrier housing, though. With all the work done to reinforce the housing, I'm guessing they are welded and I just can't tell.
On the other hand, it might not be a big deal. I just figured it would be welded along with all the other stuff. It sure look like it'll stay together behind some big power, either way.

Posted by: Adrenalin

Yea, the tubes are welded up. I suppose it's hard to tell in the pics. Maybe the powder coating is disguising it or just crappy pics.

Posted by: The OLE MAN

DAMN BOY,

That is CLEAN and I like CLEAN.

You did a good job, I'm proud of YA!

That thing must run pretty cool ( or not make to much horsepower ), no radiator and all

The OLE MAN

Posted by: Adrenalin

Quote:

Originally Posted by The OLE MAN


	DAMN BOY, That is CLEAN and I like CLEAN. You did a good job, I'm proud of YA!

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by The OLE MAN


	That thing must run pretty cool ( or not make to much horsepower ), no radiator and all The OLE MAN

Posted by: bl3wbyu

Wow, that thing really does look awesome! at first glance, I thought the headers were in backwards! :p

Got any solid predictions for numbers or times?

Posted by: LS1JAY

It's actually going to be air cooled. He stole the idea from VW!

Posted by: Adrenalin

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl3wbyu


	Wow, that thing really does look awesome! at first glance, I thought the headers were in backwards! :p Got any solid predictions for numbers or times?

None that I would put any water in until I see it. I've been told by John Urist that the y2k91mm can produce up to 1400hp. I kinda chuckled. I for one, think that maybe he could get that out of a certain combo, but for me, I dunno, I think 700-800 range??? and even that is unthinkable to me.

I'll build it and just hope for the best, take what it gives me, then tune and play with it and be happy with whatever I can eventually squeeze out of it.

I'm open for opinions as to what you guys think it might run and how much power it'll make tho.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1JAY


	It's actually going to be air cooled. He stole the idea from VW!

That's right! gotta loose as much weight as possible up front!

Posted by: bigjhaire

man that thing looks mean.. let us know when its done. I might ride down and whatch it launch...

Posted by: Grape Ape

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adrenalin


	I'm open for opinions as to what you guys think it might run and how much power it'll make tho.

No strong idea, but 7-800 is almost certainly doable without much trouble. That turbo size used to be a the limit in Outlaw as I recall. So it will help make big power. Steve Lee(Thunder Autosports) took a customers car(Darrell) to 7.49@ 18x a few yrs back with a single 88... If that's any indication. He ended that race as runner-up because the car wasn't legal for 7.49... And so he had to be sure it didn't run so well again, or face disqualification. The competitor(thugh I don't remember who) was legal for 7.49 and his car was running .30's all day. The win was in the bag. Anyway, big power.

What's the rest of your setup? I see it has TFS heads, but are they High Ports, Twisted Wedge(or R's like mine), what? It's been so long since I examined anything under the V.C. on that engine, I don't see any glaring diff in your pics. I must admit though, the rocker position did make me think they're not TW.

If it's secret, that's all good. Send me a PM of some specs just so I can have an idea how well it might perform. I was thinking from what you showed, it should be good for deep 8's without much trouble... Say near 1,000rwhp possible.

Quote:


	That's right! gotta loose as much weight as possible up front!

Never consider THAT for weight savings!

Posted by: Adrenalin

No secrets here, and there is a reason for that. I'm smart enough to know that there is alot that I don't know and I infact don't know everything so by posting details, others with experience might chime in on what to look for, expect and or change. I try to post up even this fact often so others might be more incouraged to do so.

The short block and heads were bought from Bennett Racing

I bought the BASIC DART SHORTBLOCK 302 TO 363 CID He advised 348ci big bore so I followed his advice. http://www.bennettracing.com/produc...hortblocks.html

I bought TFS Hi-Ports Stage 3 http://www.bennettracing.com/Engine...EET%20HEAT.html

The cam was chosen by Bennett as well and is a hydrolic roller.

As for the power and ET, I have heard those times/power mentioned but like I said, I will believe it when I see it but I guarantee that I will be happy with whatever I end up getting out of it.

Posted by: LS1JAY

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adrenalin


	No secrets here, and there is a reason for that. I'm smart enough to know that there is alot that I don't know and I infact don't know everything so by posting details, others with experience might chime in on what to look for, expect and or change. I try to post up even this fact often so others might be more incouraged to do so. The short block and heads were bought from Bennett Racing I bought the BASIC DART SHORTBLOCK 302 TO 363 CID He advised 348ci big bore so I followed his advice. http://www.bennettracing.com/produc...hortblocks.html I bought TFS Hi-Ports Stage 3 http://www.bennettracing.com/Engine...EET%20HEAT.html The cam was chosen by Bennett as well and is a hydrolic roller. As for the power and ET, I have heard those times/power mentioned but like I said, I will believe it when I see it but I guarantee that I will be happy with whatever I end up getting out of it.

The car's going to be a beast! Maybe even faster than Howard's 351W!

Posted by: Adrenalin

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1JAY


	The car's going to be a beast! Maybe even faster than Howard's 351W!

Hell no! If it's that fast, than I better back off on some power... he was what... about 3 times as fast as you were right Jay?

Posted by: LS1JAY

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adrenalin


	Hell no! If it's that fast, than I better back off on some power... he was what... about 3 times as fast as you were right Jay?

Baahhahhahaaaahahhaaaahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!! !! You're funny!

Posted by: Grape Ape

As long as the internals are as solid as the foundation, you will be able to get great power from that. Being a 348, you'll get good rpm, and with a turbo, you'll have great torque. This adds up to high hp. Not as high as a bigger engine, but you won't need anymore, unless you're looking to go serious on the racing circuit(due to rules, etc.).

I suspect that 800range won't be a problem for this setup, but I don't know how much more based on the cam specs and rpm limit, whatever each is. You could possibly reach or break 1000hp, but if you get that at the wheels, you can rightly claim an impressive build. I say that based solely on that cam possibly being less than max'd and the fairly low CI of the build.

Still, a big turbo can do wonder for a little engine. And since you chose High Ports, you'll have plenty of flow, even at the high rpm I suspect the engine will easily reach.

Pushed at all, I think it may well get you to at least low 9's on the 1/4 if you want. Tweeked correctly, 8's are in sight, depending on weight.

The SCAT forged crank is good for all that 1000hp they mentioned. Trust me, you won't just break it getting into the 8's.

The heads are excellent. I would've gone with TFS TW R, Stage II, by AFR or better still, TEA(which I have)... But they cost me the same as your HP's cost. Today they are higher. Flow is notably better on mine, and that does surprise me to be honest. That said, you'll have plenty. Mine is also solid roller, but otherwise are built much like the Bennett HP's.

I just noticed the flow is great at .800... Is your cam that large? I would think not, but with a turbo pushing air, I still think you'll be fine. All you'll need to have is a clean burn. Well, that will be a maor asset.

Turbos have never truly been my thing. They cost alot and I wanted to stick with something I had a grasp of... I wish I had a turbo car for ease of some things, but I'm happy with my build too. That means I could be wrong on all this...

I don't think I'm so wrong you won't be able to easily run 9's...

Posted by: Adrenalin

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1JAY


	Got any with a good side shot with the cowl hood on?

If the hood is not touching the intake... it has to be really freakin close. I am contemplating taking the intake spacer/attatchment down about 1/2" - 3/8"

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