Okay I've finally prioritized what needs to be done on that Dart as far as mechanical work, and my first tasks are gonna be fixing its handling and ride (which are HORRIBLE), and building up the brakes. I'm thinking a front disc conversion, and possibly rear discs, but I'll hold off on that until I feel how well it stops with the fronts and with having the rear drums repaired.
First thing, I figure I'll get the polygraphite front end kit from PST to replace all necessary bushings and whatnot in the front end, along with their heavier duty sway bars, and the 11/16" tie rods and ends (ends from PST) for a C-body. Once that's done I'll feel how it handles, and see if I want to do any work on the power steering system like having the gearbox rebuilt if need be.
How's this sound for a start? Any thoughts?
Posted by: MadScientistMatt
Well, as long as you've got the front end apart to install the poly bushings, that would be a great time to convert it to discs. Your choices for front discs are as follows:
1. '67-'72 A-body discs. Probably '66 or earlier can work too. They come with sophisticated 4-piston calipers and let you keep your existing bolt pattern. Downsides are that it's tough to find wheels for that bolt pattern and tough to find replacement parts for.
2. '73-'76 A-body discs. These are now hotly sought after and hard to find at some junkyards, but there's a reason. Stopping power may not be any higher than the earlier discs, but replacement parts are cheaper and the bolt pattern is the larger 4.5" one, easier to find wheels for. Installing these spindles requires '73-'76 A-body upper control arms.
3. '76-later B or R body discs on '73-'76 A-body spindles. These brakes are the largest Chrysler put on a passenger car short of the Viper. This is the setup I'm running, and it really stops HARD. Word is that the B/R body spindles - or the Aspen / Volare / Diplomat ones - can be bolted on too but there is some debate about whether this is a good idea.
4. Aftermarket kits.
Posted by: Jopapa
I've been thinking of the '73-'76, but didn't like the idea of the single piston calipers. I saw that there's brackets you let you put a pair of Wilwood calipers on the spindles, so that was a consideration (albeit a spendy one). Also I was hoping I could get slotted A-body rotors to go along with the conversion. I'd use A-body parts, but buy new ones from Napa or anyone who sells new Mopar parts (or even get NOS parts from ebay if possible).
Your third option sounds like a great idea though. What are the reasons for the B/R body spindles not being a good idea? Different geometry?
Posted by: FORMULA DEATH
Fed Mog still makes the 67-72 rotors and a bunch of the brake parts under its brake parts brand ; Franklin I think .
Posted by: MadScientistMatt
I haven't had any problems with the single piston calipers on my Dart. No need for slotted rotors, either - the 11.75" discs really grab hard without them.
The B and R body spindles are significantly taller than A-body spindles and require the upper ball joint to go through a different range of motion. One Mopar magazine editor claims to have checked and found that it's still not outside what the ball joint can handle, but this results in very different suspension geometry.
Posted by: Jopapa
Quote:
Originally posted by MadScientistMatt I haven't had any problems with the single piston calipers on my Dart. No need for slotted rotors, either - the 11.75" discs really grab hard without them.
Well those single piston calipers are certainly easier on the pocketbook than the 4-piston calipers and especially the Wilwoods. I'm still trying to figure out if I'm gonna have to replace my upper and lower control arms when I do the conversion. That'll make things much more difficult if I have to
Sure be nice to show up those punks in their Honduh's once everything's done on this though
Posted by: MadScientistMatt
The lower control arms will be the same. You will have to swap the upper control arms, though. This isn't a big deal, though - once you get the spindles off, you're going to have to remove two bolts on each side and they just come right off. This would be a good time to install different bushings - either polyurethane for less deflection, or the Moog offset rubber ones to change the camber. If you want to go all out, Magnum Force Racing sells tubular upper control arms that improve the camber curve and high speed stability.
Posted by: FORMULA DEATH
Check out mopar action's tech archive , they have a good disc swap article . If you plan on driving your car alot I would seriously think about the Moog high-density rubber stuff .
Posted by: Jopapa
Quote:
Originally posted by 340-4speed Check out mopar action's tech archive , they have a good disc swap article . If you plan on driving your car alot I would seriously think about the Moog high-density rubber stuff .
Moog? Haven't heard of them before (though granted I still consider myself a Mopar greehorn). Are you talking for the bushings?
Posted by: FORMULA DEATH
Yeah Moog makes good bushings and suspension parts in general.
Posted by: Jopapa
Would their high density rubber be better than polyurethane or polygraphite?
Posted by: MadScientistMatt
Polyurethane (Polygraphite is simply a trade name for graphite lubricated polyurethane) is considerably more rigid than high density rubber - usually around 100 times stiffer than natural rubber, although "rubber" actually means a wide variety of things. Delrin is even stiffer, although considerably more expensive (and generally not sold in Summit catalogs). The stiffer materials don't flex as much under hard cornering, but allegedly can make for a stiffer ride (I haven't noticed).
The advantage of Moog's rubber bushings is that they can be ordered with offset holes, allowing you to adjust your suspension in ways it's not normally adjustable. This is next to impossible to do with stiffer bushings.
Posted by: FORMULA DEATH
Also the poly stuff wears out faster and squeaks more . It also doesn't seem to help as much , except in end link bushings on a sway bay and stuff .
Posted by: Jopapa
Quote:
Originally posted by MadScientistMatt The advantage of Moog's rubber bushings is that they can be ordered with offset holes, allowing you to adjust your suspension in ways it's not normally adjustable. This is next to impossible to do with stiffer bushings.
