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One and only Mod for a 01 GT 5 speed.
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Posted by: 99FRC

I will be able to do only one modification to my 01 GT. I am thinking of 4:10 gears accompanied by an aluminum Driveshaft. I will not be spending anymore time and money on the GT, due to the fact that currentley the 4.6 is not responding real well to alot of the mods out there. Does anyone know of a shop that is capable of quality gear intalls in the Dayton Ohio area? Thanks for the future input.

Posted by: LS1JAY

What about headers, do they help on the 4.6 GT's?

Posted by: 28

I've had people who've gotten them on theirs saying they had great results(with long tubes).You not gettin a shifter?I would highly recommend it...Try the Tri-ax or 5.0.B&M also makes one...

Posted by: Grape Ape

I know a few people who've had the stock headers extrude honed. They say it works well. 3.73 or 4.10 gears seem to be one of the most popular things done. I'd look in the NMRA website for info as to who is where though. You may also inquire about other cheap mods. There are guys running mid 11's on motor with 4.6's so, surely you could get some help. People also seem to like the shifters available ... "Pro5.0" is the best though. By the way, for about the cost of gears, D/S and install, you could add a dry niutrous kit and drop at least 1 second off your ET, from stock.

Speaking of cheap mods, have you removed the air silencer box "baffle" yet?

Posted by: JustaV6

Quote:


	Originally posted by Noir01GT due to the fact that currentley the 4.6 is not responding real well to alot of the mods out there

Are you serious? Go to some of the Mustang sites and check out the new 4.6's...these guys are putting up some decent numbers dude.

And if you only get one mod, get 3:73s...better for everyday use IMO. For more fun, i'd say put some Flowmaster 40s on it...or if you could afford it get Borla's

Posted by: 28

Don't forget to get you an h-pipe.Mac has an off-road h-pipe for about 130.00.Not bad for a few ponies and an awesome exhaust tone...hell, Idon't know where your gettin your info from,but there's all kinds of shit to make more power on the 4.6...And it's gettin cheaper and cheaper by the day...

Posted by: SVOno5oh

The first mod that should be done to any Mustang is to replace the stock SHIfTer with a great aftermarket one. The stock shifter sucks. Then worry about gears, headers, cold air kits etc.

Posted by: 99FRC

Been on vacation sorry I have not replied sooner. I agree with the shifter change. The throw on the factory unit almost has seperate ZIP codes for each gear

. Anyway I currentley do not have alot of faith in the 4.6, but the is my first Ford product. I do agree that the prices are getting cheaper with each quarter that passes. If I do the 4.10 mod included will be the following an Aluminum DS and a Shifter (which one?). I do think that the 4.6 would do MUCH better at higher RPMS. I believe these mods will be the best bang for the buck, besides with my luck if o ordered a Blower or Turbo Ford would re-release the 5.0.
Oh and I do have Raven muffelers and I like the way they sound over the 40 series flows. Happy Holidays

Posted by: Grape Ape

I would (seriously) suggest the "Pro5.0" shifter. I've used that, the Steeda Tri-ax, UPR-B.T.S., Hurst and B&M shifters and I can use any of them just fine. I just know many people who have decided the Pro5.0 is the best, it's the original (not really) and it's definitely strong. UPR's is stronger but, I wouldn't pay Joe $10 for a new one, just the same. The Pro5.0 is angled better, for a sure shift and it does help in that respect. It's also more expensive. Most people say it's worth the cost. Someone is always trying to sell his/her Steeda Tria-ax, so... They must not like them that much, eh?

You may want to find a set of used pulleys too. They're usually "on the cheap" and they can make a difference in the cars throttle-response, ending in better acceleration, of course.

And if you do, or plan to drag race this one, keep the idea of buying a good (AutoMeter) tach in the back of your mind for the future. You'd be surprised how far off the factory unit can be, especially in a drag race, when it counts. At this point, if you don't already have one, AND you drag race, go to the track sometime and try to let it rev to 7,000 (on factory tach) before you shift.... just to see what happens. It won't hurt it, even if it hits the limiter, which it probably won't do...

Posted by: Horselips

Actualy I like the stick that comes with the Tri-Ax better than the stick that comes with the Pro5.0.I tried the 5.0 and the Tri-Ax back to back and the 5.0 was just not comfortable for me with the short stick.Other than that the Pro5.0 is just as good and probably a little stronger.
I know of one person who broke a B&M And haven`t realy heard much one way or another on the Hurst T-5 shifters.
A new shifter is a must in my opinion though.Any one of them is miles ahead of the stocker.

Posted by: Horselips

and the factory tach in my 82 is about 250 rpm high compared the AutoMeter I have

Posted by: Grape Ape

My factory tach was as much as 1,200rpm off if racing, or revving the engine to see the diff. It just seemed to jump up like mad, or take it's time, depending (evidently) on the signal it got from the computer. While just riding down the street, it kept up as yours does, about 250 off, at most. But now it's totally disconnected, so I don't have that to distract me.

Posted by: Horselips

that was while racing.

Posted by: SVOno5oh

Even if you don't get a factory tach, just buy a shift light. They are super accurate, and stealthy.

As far as shifters, any of them is about 10 times better than the stock one.

If you get pulleys for the 4.6. Get the set that is balanced. Don't get the ones that double the crank damper and the pulley. I've used both. I got my ASPs used for $100 BTW. I sold them 3 years later used for $100.... They are good for nearly 10 hp.

Posted by: Grape Ape

Quote:


	Originally posted by Horselips that was while racing.

Well yeah, but my engine revs extremely fast.

Posted by: StoneFox

Quote:


	Originally posted by It'llrun go to the track sometime and try to let it rev to 7,000 (on factory tach) before you shift.... just to see what happens. It won't hurt it, even if it hits the limiter, which it probably won't do...

It will hit the limiter, unless he reprogramed it. Stock its set at 6000

Posted by: Grape Ape

Quote:


	Originally posted by 89StoneFox It will hit the limiter, unless he reprogramed it. Stock its set at 6000

That's why I told him to do it.... The engine will hit the limiter, but the tach will read differently. That's also why I told him it won't hurt anything to do it ... Of course, I don't want him to do it several times or anything. Just once, maybe twice, so he can see how far off his tach is. The rev limiter should be more than 6000 on an 01. At least 6250 and possibly 6500 on the 99 and newer models, although I must admit, I haven't actually hit the rev limiter in any that new.

Posted by: Horselips

could the differance be that my car is an 82 without a computer?

Posted by: Grape Ape

Quote:


	Originally posted by Horselips could the differance be that my car is an 82 without a computer?

I wondered that myself. Your 82 came with no computer at all? Well, even if it did, the tach might be mechanical, for all I know. I would think it was/is electronic though, even then. My 82 has a non factory engine and an MSD ignition, so it's very different then whatever the factory stuff was. I just don't have much faith in the accuracy of factory tachs on most cars.

Posted by: Horselips

MSD 6A here also.The tach is electric.The engine is originaly out of a 87 .

Posted by: SVOno5oh

The '82 GTs had one computer..... the achille's heel of all Fords; the dreaded Duraspark ignition box. I had 3 of them. As one would overheat, I'd swap out a cool one. Those things sucked.

Posted by: StoneFox

Quote:


	Originally posted by It'llrun That's why I told him to do it.... The engine will hit the limiter, but the tach will read differently. That's also why I told him it won't hurt anything to do it ... Of course, I don't want him to do it several times or anything. Just once, maybe twice, so he can see how far off his tach is. The rev limiter should be more than 6000 on an 01. At least 6250 and possibly 6500 on the 99 and newer models, although I must admit, I haven't actually hit the rev limiter in any that new.

Ive hit the limiter a few times in the 01 GT. Your right it is about 6250 I just rounded it off. It seems like just when my car would start pulling hardest it would hit the rev limiter.

Posted by: Grape Ape

Quote:


	Originally posted by 89StoneFox Ive hit the limiter a few times in the 01 GT. Your right it is about 6250 I just rounded it off. It seems like just when my car would start pulling hardest it would hit the rev limiter.

Oddly enough, many people say that very thing. What bugs me is, Ford knows quite well, they could allow it to turn 7K if they wanted to. They just don't want to take ANY chances. I believe the Cobra is set higher though(7,000 or so), but I've never tried to find out on a totally stock one.

Posted by: SVOno5oh

The N/A DOHC Cobras have a rev limter at 7000K. Redline was 6800. My old '97 would hit the limiter at 7200 on the stock tach. I did it a couple of times autocrossing. At the drags I shifted at 7000 on the stock tach.

Posted by: 99FRC

Did someone say 10 HP for pulleys? That may be worth the time and money. Is anyone having problems with the install? The last visit to Ford I think they looked for pulleys? The manager told me that pulleys are causing crank problems.

Posted by: SVOno5oh

I said 10 hp, and its a pretty good number. If you have tons of aftermarket stereo equipment, you wanna skip them though.

I haven't heard of any crank problems if you use the weighted pulley sets. The people with problems are getting rid of the stock damper and running a much lighter aluminum pulley. This applies to any car not just Mustangs. You use one of those shiny aluminum units that does away with the crank damper (even on a zero balance engine like the 4.6) and you are gonna get harmonics that cause damage.

Get the ASP or Steeda pulleys if you want them. I know they are properly weighted for the 4.6. They are likely even the same exact pulleys.

Posted by: 28

Quote:


	Originally posted by Noir01GT Did someone say 10 HP for pulleys? That may be worth the time and money. Is anyone having problems with the install? The last visit to Ford I think they looked for pulleys? The manager told me that pulleys are causing crank problems.

I don't see how...Especially as to the Cobras' having one of the best factory cranks out there...even the Chevy guys will back me up on this one...

Posted by: SVOno5oh

Don't see how if you don't want to. But my '97 Cobra with nothing but pullies and a K&N in the stock airbox pulled 103 in the 1/4. Yah its not LS1 strong, but its a lot better than the 99-101 they ran stock. Do the math on a heavy ass car, that is actually more than 10 hp.

Posted by: 99FRC

I do not have any stereo or electrical add ons. personally I have always enjoyed the sound of the Ford V8's. Even when I had my T/A's I envied the Mustang exhaust. I have read that some people leave off the Alternator pulley. I do not think this will be neccesary for me, since I do not have any electrical/Stereo mods.
Back to the origianal post on gears. What is the best way to recalibrate the speedo? Chip, or the Signal modifier? I am thinking chip for the reason, that then I may be able to bump up the timing also. Input please.

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