Pages: 1

need your tought on my 327 build up

(Click here to view the original thread with full colors/images)


Posted by: 68Chevelle327

ok i am building my first engine (327 chevy) for my 68 chevelle. my question is on the parts i plan on sending the black in and have them bake it and bore it out and stuff like and and i am also goin to send the crank and heads cuz i plan on reusing them to reduce the cost tatal. What i'm not sure of is if i should reuse the stock rods or get new ones i do plan on getting new pistons so i'm not sure if there will be a difference with new rods or not, what do you guys think?

EDIT: i forgot to add that it a 68 327 that came out of a 68 camaro.



Posted by: Mr. P

Well here's two cents for you from an import guy who also likes American iron. I have a 327 hipo in a boat right now, with Edelbrock performer intake. I think mine is a 1968 vintage too, and of course, you can easily make it a 383 with the popular stroker, or you can make it a 350 too. If you're going to get into a rebore, with new pistons, then you (may) want to redo the connecting rods too (if) the motor is going for especially higher power. Otherwise, pene and magniflux the old ones, balance em up, and you're probably good to go with street power.

Come on Chevyboys, jump in here. I used the old rods. Mr. P



Posted by: cswrench

I see no problem with using them as long as they are inspected throughly.



Posted by: 68Chevelle327

yes, i was going to send the crank, heads and maybe rods to have them inspected to make sure theres no small cracks or anything else



Posted by: funstick

replace the rod bolts with a decnet arp bolt. have the shot peened to eliminate stress resiers and of course they should be magnafluxed before any of that happens. also they should be resized and check for straightens and out of rouns. the center to cneter lengths could also be of some have that checked as well.



Posted by: Penske

Putting new ARP bolts in will require the big ends to be re-sized to make sure they're correct, and also check for stretch. Actually, rods are pretty cheap, like Eagle's for less than $250. And you can get a setup with 6" rods as well, as long as you get pistons to match.

Also, most 327s used forged cranks (you can tell from the wide casting line on the crank), except for some large journal engine in late '68. So that's a good thing.

If it's a small journal engine, you won't be able to drop a 350 or 400 crank in without machining. 327s rev nice, though, with a 3.25" stroke, so I'd stick with it.

You need to know if the engine was a 2bbl or a 4bbl. The 2bbl engine was low compression, with small valves, the 4bbl was 10:1 with 1.94 intakes. If you have the 2bbl heads, toss 'em and get something else.



Posted by: DODGE_MAIN

You should ALWAYS resize rods on a rebuild no matter what.



Posted by: funstick

only resize if it not round. how can you get more round then round ??? it its correct leave it alone. it its in spec leave it alone. etc. but round is round and correct is corrrect.



Posted by: DODGE_MAIN

So uhhh how many 100,000 + miles rods have you found not to need resizing?



Posted by: Penske

In a performance engine, I ALWAYS replace the rod bolts, which makes resizing a necessity.



Posted by: funstick

again ive seen plenty of round rod ends in spec.odly enough they seem to come out of heavily use engines. like police cars etc. its not everyday but it happens.

to qoute Mr wallace of wallace engine who i might add it the only person in the world who knows how to rebuild a few wierd types of aircraft engines.

if the hole is round and within spec what am i boring it for ?



Posted by: DODGE_MAIN

hee hee speakin of weird engines.... My buddy was showing me a fork lift motor he had apart.... Company was bitching that it didn't last enuff hours. He tells me to feel the oil in the crank case, it's pretty gritty and the cam is worn right down and so are all the bearings and HUGE ridges in the cylinders..... Silly fuckers were runnin it in a warehouse and lumber yard with no air filter! May as well have just topped it up with sand and saw dust every day.



Posted by: funstick

ever seen what vavle lapping compound can do ??



Posted by: DODGE_MAIN

I can just imagine! Hey llets break a cam in with it wer'e all out of cam lube!



Posted by: funstick

somebody pisses you off dump a couple of onces in there oil. youll see what happens when valve lapping compound gets ground in. quet amussing. its a long story dont ask. but i did have fun watching for a couple of weeks as the car got slower and slower.

ill put it like this somebody thought i would be funny in highschool (a prasctical prank to drain the oil out of my motor) so i rerturned the favor. just in a more entertaining way. let put it like this the machinist who built that motor said WTF happened everything is worn out.

i think they had to throw that new forged crank out. very entertaining indeed.



Posted by: 68Chevelle327

Quote:
Originally posted by Penske
Putting new ARP bolts in will require the big ends to be re-sized to make sure they're correct, and also check for stretch. Actually, rods are pretty cheap, like Eagle's for less than $250. And you can get a setup with 6" rods as well, as long as you get pistons to match.

Also, most 327s used forged cranks (you can tell from the wide casting line on the crank), except for some large journal engine in late '68. So that's a good thing.

If it's a small journal engine, you won't be able to drop a 350 or 400 crank in without machining. 327s rev nice, though, with a 3.25" stroke, so I'd stick with it.

You need to know if the engine was a 2bbl or a 4bbl. The 2bbl engine was low compression, with small valves, the 4bbl was 10:1 with 1.94 intakes. If you have the 2bbl heads, toss 'em and get something else.




it is a 4bbl with the fulie heads and it is at least 10:1 , and telling by the numbers on the block i think it was made in 67 and i was told it was out of a 68 camaro



Posted by: OldSchoolPower

What are your plans for the motor? If it is going to run high compression, nitrous, blower etc etc I would toss those rods and go for some forged ones even if that will be in the future. Are you getting forged are cast pistons?



Back to the Forums



vBulletin Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Limited.
vB Easy Archive Final ©2000 - 2008 - Created by Stefan "Xenon" Kaeser