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Just humour me...
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Posted by: dead

How much would it take to get a manual 89+ Mustang GT 5.0 in the 10's or 11's? Assuming a GT was available then.. atleast the 5.0. That seems pretty damn quick, but I've also seen many Mustang buildups with many stock components, just supercharged and an upgraded drivetrain/slicks to bring all that power nicely to the wheels running 9's. I figure if it were that easy there would be many more Mustangs on the road, but I'm still very curious.

Now, I'm also basically a newbie in terms of actual performance work, but this will be a fairly long project, so I have the time it takes to learn (I want to do all the work myself), so if I'm just spouting out random names for stuff I don't really know, feel free to smack me

Though I've been reading up a lot on the Mustang buildups that can break 9's.

I was thinking of a new performance cylinder head with 2.02 intake and 1.60 or 1.80 exhaust ports.. by the way, is that inches or what? Seems kinda large, heh. But that's been common on the better buildups. Upgraded EFI and ignition systems (really not sure what), exhaust headers, and for superchargers.. a Vortech V1 or YS-trim (haven't found the YS-trim, so I dont know much about that, the new Paxton gear-driven SC, or an ATI (don't know much about those either, except that they're very high perf.).

And new cams.. I've heard the E303 is good if you want the vehicle to be street-driveable. Though I've never understood why cars with a rough idle aren't street-driveable... probably things I'd know if my dad was a drag racer or something, heh.

New gears, it seems that 3.73 or 4.56 are good. I'd also upgrade the suspension/body in a minimalist approach but be able to handle the power.. I've heard of a bunch of different upgrades people do, but I honestly can't remember them off hand.

Now, regarding the internals.. I was wondering if valve clearance would be an issue if I got a new cylinder head, or if everything would work nicely. I've heard some Mustangs were equipped with forged pistons some years.. is it basically a given that if you want to run 400 hp+ that new internals would be a necessity? A few people just seem to shot-peen their pistons/rods and run fine. If this is a fairly unreliable setup, however, I will definately upgrade the internals.

Anyway, that's about it.. any suggestions/ideas/completely shooting down my new idea of a project? Thanks.

Posted by: 65fairlane

87-92 mustang gt's came with trw forged pistons. You may need to get your pistons notched for a higher lift cam, especially with that large of an intake valve. The T-5 will break if you drag race a lot, the highest rated T-5 was the Z spec which was only rated for 310 lbft, this was a cobra transmission. You would be best off buying an aftermarket. The tremec is the popular choice if you have the money. 302 blocks aren't the strongest structure in the world. Dodgemain will be the first to point that out, guys with Fords will be the second ones. Do you need to be emissions legal? Do you plan to keep it Fuel injected? There are guys on here who know a lot more than I do, and hopefully they will come along and give you a more complete answer soon.

Posted by: MikeT

No offense but, young kid+10sec mustang= dead kid.

Kinda fits your name though.

Posted by: 65fairlane

Quote:


	Originally posted by MikeT No offense but, young kid+10sec mustang= dead kid. Kinda fits your name though.

Hmmm I never thought of that... If it did happen (which I hope it doesn't) would that make all of us who tried to give advice responsible?

Posted by: dead

I know 18 year olds seem to have some type of metal in their blood that only attracts them to poles, but I'm not a stupid driver.

Never read up much about trannies, though, thanks for the tip.. never thought about that. I'll see what's rated for some nice power.

I was planning on keeping it fuel-injected and emissions legal, though I think there MAY be some emissions leniencies if your vehicle is considered a "hot rod" here, though again, something I'll have to check up. I always thought the 302 seemed plenty strong, since there are many 5.0's with great performance numbers, and they have their own class in Ford racing events.. hmm.. also another block is an option, since this is basically a complete rebuild.

Posted by: 65fairlane

This would be the ideal block, but it is a little pricey.

Posted by: MikeT

Quote:


	I know 18 year olds seem to have some type of metal in their blood that only attracts them to poles, but I'm not a stupid driver.

I'm not saying your an idiot or anything. Just that a 10-11 sec mustang isn't as easy to drive as a 14 sec mustang. The suspension will need to be setup for drag racing. And unless you've got extra wheels you'll probibly be running skinnies n slicks or atleast drag radials. The handling and breaking will be much worse than stock and make it much harder to recover when you lose control. The 400-500 hp needed to run 10-11's will also make it much easier to lose control, especially in rain.

And you WILL lose control at some point, we ALL do.

I got my IROC when I was 18, and while definatly not a fast car I did manage to push it past its limits a couple of times. Everyone I know has.

Just ask Evil how easy it is to lose it with drag radials on a wet road.

Posted by: 65fairlane

I put my car in the ditch a few weeks ago (back when it was icey, I am wearing shorts now) and it is by no means fast. I have never taken it to the track and estimate it's quarter mile time to be in the high 30s. You can be the best driver in the world and sometimes shit happens. You also need a lot of extra stuff if you break into the 11s. I saw this in carcraft about a year ago:

10.00 to 11.99

• Full-bodied cars with an unaltered firewall, floor, and body can run 10.00 to 10.99 with a six-point rollbar

• Convertibles running faster than 11.00 must have an NHRA-approved 10-point rollcage

• Aftermarket rear axles required

• SFI-approved five-point harness must be used

• SFI-approved harmonic balancer required on 10.99-and-faster cars

• All drivers must wear an SFI-approved jacket

• Manual transmissions require an SFI-approved bellhousing (scattershield)

• Automatic transmissions require an SFI-approved transmission shield on 10.99-and-faster cars

• Must use steel valve stems on wheels

Posted by: StoneFox

My advice to you would be to get you a bigger MAF, T. body, Intake, and 1.7 rockers to start off with. As you become used to the car and learn how to drive it, do more stuff to it slowly.

Posted by: dead

Heh yeah I guessed that, a lot of extra safety stuff necessary. Thanks for pointing that out... there are a bunch of other things as well, though I can't even remember what it is. One of them is to stop your drivetrain from dumping on the track, heh. Well I guess if the time ever comes and I can build up this car, I'll check everything needed and systematically go through it all.

I never really thought about the car being much harder to control.. which I guess I'll definately have to watch out for, but I'd be safe and keep the car to its handling and braking limits on the road, and let her loose on the 1320.

Posted by: dead

Well I can't drive it on the street now anyway, basically this is a kill time project to create a really powerful car.

Posted by: Tang

Well, you can use a 1.90 exhaust valve (yes thats inches) with no problems. But when you got to a 2.02 you gotta notch the pistons to clear.

You said you wanted it in the 10's, you didn't say reliably ?

Probably wouldn't be hard. Get a Holley Systamax II engine kit, 30 lb injectors, 70mm throttle body, 75mm air meter, 190 fuel pump, and all the little things you need for that kit to work. Then use 3.73 gears, because you are using a stock bottom after all, and dont want it spinning ridiculously high. Then add 10-12 psi from a Procharger. That should net you some low 11's -high 10's ATLEAST on ET Streets. That is assuming the clutch and trans. dont fry, which it probably will. So you better look into a Tremec and a good clutch also.

If you are set on a buildup like that, find you a '89-'93 Coupe, they are lighter and more rigid.

With all that said, I agree with everybody else. Buy the car, and start slow, buying a few parts at a time. Start with an exhaust, 1.7 rockers, and a bigger throttle body and maf (kinda what Stone said). Then work your way onto bigger parts.

I got my '92 GT when I was 17, and it only had a few basic mods, and I got myself into some hairy situations.

Get the car, learn the car, then start modding the car.

Posted by: Grape Ape

10's is asking allot from a stock block. It could happen, but it could also scatter all over the track.

My build years ago had no trouble running 11's. I skipped on the aftermarket axles, but today, you'd be taking a chance on a 1/4 mile track, since the rules are upheld better now almost everywhere.
I had:
6 point bar
D/S safety loop
15X8.5" rear tires and 15X6" fronts(no skinnies needed)
3.73 gears and an Auburn Pro (8.8)
Tremec 3550 trans (after 9 T-5's split) then a well built AOD
5point racing harness
Driver side racing seat, other interior stock except roll bar and
5" Monster tach (set at 5900 most of the time)
308 (.040 overbore 302HO) stock bottom end
Lunati Custom Grind camshaft, not very lumpy either .510 lift It's the same as a Steeda19
TFS Twisted Wedge heads (2.02 intake valves). Under .540 lift is easy.
1.7 rockers
70MM Throttle Body and spacer plate
73MM Mas Air
K&N panel filter
4" crank pulley and the alternator pulley as well.
MSD ignition and coil.
125 shot of nitrous.
That's all I can remember now. I can't have missed much though.
It ran 11.70's regularly without slicks.

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