And for an extra bonus...
Whats the best gasket sealer you have ever used?
Posted by: EDS01SS
The best way i have found is to run it at 2500 rpm for about 20 minutes and shut it down.Readjust the idle,the rocker arms,the timing and change the oil and filter.Then start it back up and drive it like you stole it.As far as gasket sealer I use the orange high temp permatex.That stuff will hold up to almost every type of auto fluid.
Posted by: 85snake
What oil? I always run mobil 1 but ive been thinking about running Royal Purple. In the back of my mind i think someone told me 30w for the break in then whatever. something about it seats the rings better.
Posted by: VETTKLR
30 WT Non-Detergent when you first fire it up. Run that oil around town for a few miles. That 20 minutes at 2500 rpm is for breaking in flat tappet cams. Roller motors can be fired up and driven away with no problem. All you have to do is get the rings seated in their new home. Don't use synthetic for that, because it lubricates the cylinder walls too well. You need the non-detergent stuff for that, and then go to whatever's clever.
I also use the Copper Permatex for all the points that require silicone. Napa's "The Right Stuff" is so good, that it's commonly used for exhaust gasket material!
Posted by: cuda66273
News Flash!!
A few years ago the EPA forced the Oil Company's to remove the zinc from motor oils...guess what....it was the zinc that protected our cams during the break-in process. Every Cam company started having failures and we weren't sure why? The blamed it on the demise of the Johnson Lifter Company and not being able o supply the high quality lifters that Johnson was famous for.
Actually the Manley people figured it out last year and started recommending a GM product called EOS "engine oil supplement" on all new engines using their components. This product, as near as we in the engine business can figure out must be near pure zinc. We do know for a fact that if you use EOS for start up your chances of eating a lobe go from 50/50 to almost zero, the bigger the cam, the higher the spring seat pressure, the higher the chance of eating a lobe. We won't sell a cam anymore without including a bottle of the EOS, don't want to use it? Go somewhere else.
On our own motors we use 20/50 Valvoline straight up, take them to the track fire them off bring them down to idle immediatly, set the carb, drive them to the box, 2nd gear wind them to about 6K hit 3rd and hold at 5000 until the tires get hot. Set the brake and floor it, pull the trigger and shift at about 6800. Screw that breakin stuff.
Did I mention we haven't used a steel lifter in any of our engines in almost 3 years?
We use nothing but Joe Schubeck's composite lifters, no break in, change cams on same lifters, mix them up, use them in different motors, run 230#s seat pressure on a BB Mopar and spin it to 7K no problem.
In this century the technology has exceeded the usefulness of solid steel lifters, steel roller lifters or even steel hydraulic lifters.
Joe Schubeck has designed solid, Mushroom, sponge and roller lifters using today's composite materials that make all the conventional stuff as obsolete as the Model T.
I will never own another steel lifter, $640.00 is about the cheapest insurance you can get to guarranty no cam failures, no vlave float, almost impossible to drop a valve because or the increased spring pressure and absence of float even on the biggest valved engines.
Have you ever wondered where the huge MPH and quicker ET's have come from in the last few years in Pro Stock? or how they can wind those NASCAR SB's to 9500 RPM with a flat tappet cam?.....Welcome to 2004.
Posted by: KrautBurner
the track,
now that's the way to break in a new motor.
Posted by: Tang
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85snake
What oil? I always run mobil 1 but ive been thinking about running Royal Purple. In the back of my mind i think someone told me 30w for the break in then whatever. something about it seats the rings better.
Id say no on the Royal Purple, read the post I made about it in the Pit.
