Does anyone know where i can find a starter, front panels, and power stering for my 68' Chevelle for cheap?
Posted by: BlownElCamino
Hello,
I lurk this site a lot and come out when I think I can throw out something helpful.
I own a '68 El Camino which shares many parts with your Chevelle.
There are some unique features to the '68 year model, but these are mostly cosmetic (trim, etc). Otherwise, the '68 and '69 models share parts.
My answers here assume two things:
1. Your electrical system is the standard negative-ground system as opposed to positive ground.
2. Your engine is either Chevy small or large V-8.
The starter is a relatively easy:
1. There are two mounting types for the starter. One uses staggered bolt holes and another uses bolt holes that are straight across from each other. Some early vintage blocks are drilled for one or the other, but most early and later blocks have both mounting patterns. Check the mounting pad on your block. If your block is drilled for both patterns, then you are in the clear. Any auto parts store starter will do the job. Otherwise, you will have to make sure you get the right bolt pattern (They are still made both ways-no big deal).
3. If all else has worked out thus far, you now have to find out what size flywheel you are using. Auto trans flexplates for Chevys come in 153 teeth or 168 teeth sizes. Manual trans flywheels also came in different sizes. Makes sure you have that right tooth count when you get you new starter.
4. You should be able to get your starter just about anywhere. However, if you are running headers, you might want to spend a little more money to avoid problems. Chevy starters are notorious for heat failures due the combination the oil leaks common to this area of Chevy engines and heat soak from the exhaust passing close by. Heat and clearance problems may be an issue, especially if you have Hooker headers (great headers- they just run too close to the starter in an already crowded space). I spent the extra money on a CSR mini starter ($225.99). It is a dual pattern mount that will fit any size flywheel, is smaller and allows better exhaust clearance, and does not seem to be prone to heat failure. After 5 years of running these on two cars, I am happy to not have to change starters periodically.
Power Steering:
OEM pumps with the divorced reservoir are sometimes hard to find.
You can easily mount a late model steering pump with an integral reservoir on to your engine as long as your cylinder heads are drilled for the standard accessory mounting holes. GM pumps are as reliable as their starters are not. Therefore, this is one of the few cases where I don't balk at pulling a rotating part out of a junk yard. If you get your pump from the graveyard, it should come with the bracket attached because most yards are not going to go to the trouble to yank the pulley to remove the bracket. Get one from an older car with v-belts rather than a serpentine belt as this unit will bolt straight to your block in place of the old unit. The low pressue side hose connects to the steering box low side. Th eonly tirck is connecting the high-pressure line. The late model pumps have a metric high-pressure side fitting where the OEM was English (SAE) threads. You gearbox, unless it has been swapped for a newer model, will also have standard threads. You will have to come up with a high-side line that is metric at one end and SAE at the other:
1. Hose and clamps WILL NOT WORK. the pressure is too high.
2. If a local shop makes custom hydraulic hose, get them to make one.
3. Russell makes power steering box and pump fittings that allow you to use
stainless steel braided lines.
4. Classic Performance Products makes a hose kit for this for $55.00.
1-800-522-5004 Part # 605K. This is a very heavy duty hose kit. This is
what I ended up with.
The only problem is the great weakness of V-belt systems in general. If you have a serious amount of horsepower, you are going to spend your time replacing belts because engine torque will bend your brackets all over the place. Although I don't like their pulleys, March Performance makes some of the best power steering brackets I have seen. They are a pain in the ass to set up because you need five hands to do it, but once you get there, the pump is going to stay solidly where you put it, which will not happen with the OEM brackets. I also highly regard their alternator brackets.
However, if you really want to go for the ultimate solution, you could just do what I did and go for a serpentine belt system. If you do this, you can kiss problems with belt-throwing goodbye. If you are interested in how to do this with mostly salvage yard parts, I can explain how to do it in a seperate post.
The body panels are the tough part. Having been born in East Chicago, Indiana, I know all about the rust belt. The only thing I could say is to try parts dealers here in the south. I have found quite a few parts in the West Texas desert, but be ready to pay, because these dealers know what they have and won't give these fenders away. Original Parts Group supplies these in both New Old Stock (NOS) ($414.95 ea) and repro ($314.95 ea). As always, I have had better luck with the fit of NOS rather than repro.
I hope this helps.
Posted by: OminousRT
This guy sells only 64-72 parts.
Posted by: Spenser01
well i live all the way in WI, buddy
Posted by: OminousRT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenser01
Does anyone know where i can find a starter, front panels, and power stering for my 68' Chevelle for cheap?
Well you should of said in Wi. area. I won't try to help you no more.
Posted by: BlownElCamino
You should be aware that most parts dealers will ship across the country, including Wisconsin.
Posted by: OminousRT
Thank you, Sir.
John
Posted by: Spenser01
ok, im sorry if i didnt mention where i lived, but thanx for the help guys
